Pandolfa

The world is taking to Emilia-Romagna’s delicious wines as enthusiastically as it has its unparalleled food culture, and we couldn’t be fonder of the idea. The mention of Emilia-Romagna conjures its best performing culinary exports, Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena, Parmigiano Reggiano DOP and Prosciutto Crudo di Parma DOP, to name a few, or the widely emulated Tortellini di Modena, and Lasagne alla Bolognese, which have set the standards for Italian gastronomic excellence globally. 

Emilia-Romagna’s wine renaissance is a welcome addition to a local table that is already richly adorned. The contrast between its two halves (Emilia to the west, Romagna the east) offers a fascinating insight into its wine heritage. The character of the people who live there will tell you which is which, as much as the wine styles and native varieties grown there. On the Emilia side, Lambrusco-based wines are the region’s claim to fame. On the Romagna side, native Albana, Trebbiano and Sangiovese are celebrated. Perhaps it is the Mediterranean influence, or the perseverance of farming traditions and abundant wine production along with a generous cuisine, that confer the people of Emilia-Romagna a certain cheerfulness and openness that we also found in those wines. 

Pandolfa:

Tenuta Pandolfa’s roots go back to times of knights. The name ‘Pandolfa’ is derived from Pandolfa Malatesta, the Lord of Fano, who resided there with his troops before annexing the Castle of Fiumana in 1436. He was said to be the most audacious condottieri (mercenary troops leader), and an avid art aficionado. His portrait, painted by Piero della Francesca in 1451 and now kept in the Louvre Museum, is represented on the Pandolfo and Pandolfo Riserva labels.
 
As the fourth-generation winemaker of the family, Marco caries on the estate’s history and heritage. His goal is to champion local traditions and native varieties, especially Sangiovese, using the estate’s organically grown fruit from the subzone of Predappio. It is indeed a historic Sangiovese winegrowing area where the cultivation of the variety is intertwined with the history of great winemaking families like the Ricci, who have done a lot to develop and perfect the region’s unique style of Sangiovese. His work is fundamental and illustrative of what is possible in Emilia-Romagna today.


Noelia Ricci:

Emilia-Romagna’s Romanesque architecture is a defining feature of the region’s landscape and rich history, and the backdrop to the Ricci family’s winemaking legacy. The vast and fertile plains bordering the Po River to its north have been the premises of industrial grape farming for millennia, making it a major supplier of affordable, easy-drinking table wines for the better part of the 1970s and 1980s. The 20th century saw a handful of small, quality-driven producers emerge, the likes of Marco Cirese of Tenuta Pandolfa and Noelia Ricci. 

The Noelia Ricci label was created in 2010, as part of Tenuta Pandolfa, a history-rich estate that has endured the tests of time and wars. Under the guidance of Noelia’s father, Giuseppe Ricci, the estate was restored and overhauled to include works of art inspired by the area’s medieval heritage. In addition, Ricci redefined the agricultural development of the estate by acquiring two adjacent farms, where the first Sangiovese, Trebbiano and Albana vines were planted.

Today, Noelia’s granddaughter, Paola Piscopo owns Tenuta Pandolfa. With her son Marco Cirese at the reins, the two labels are set on a successful path that was paved with tradition and respect of the land. With the Noelia Ricci wines, Marco captures the exceptional potential of the estate’s highest 9 hectares of cru sites and their unique microclimates, while making the most of the native vines, establishing new vineyards with a sustainability outlook, and finally adding a contemporary touch in the cellar.

Vaite Teriierooiterai – Master of Wine Business, AWAC and WSET Diploma candidate

2021 Rosato ‘Ginevra’
LUC $18.50

The recent success of the estate owes much to Noelia Ricci, who in 1980 first envisioned the business potential of Tenuta Pandolfa and built the beautiful winery in Forli, south of Verona. The estate itself covers 140 hectares, of which 40 are planted mainly to Sangiovese as well as Trebbiano, Chardonnay, and a few other experimental varieties. This 100% Sangiovese Rosato is a beautiful expression of Sangiovese as it is known in Emilia-Romagna. Spaghetti with smoked trout carbonara is a perfect combination.

Winemaking:

The fruit was harvested during the coldest hours of the day, then gently pressed. The must was macerated on skins for up to 6 hours before a slow and cool fermentation in stainless-steel tanks. The wine was left on lees for 6 months before bottling.

Tasting Notes:

What makes this Sangiovese Rosato so appealing is the subtle mix of aromas of apricots, raspberries, and spiced plums. The sweetness is understated and balanced with a combination of delicate flavours and lively acidity.

2021 Sangiovese ‘Federico’
LUC $19.00

Let’s put aside the Chianti format of Sangiovese and take a moment to appreciate what Emilia-Romagna does best along with superb food. Made from 100% estate-grown Sangiovese, the ‘Federico’ is a benchmark wine for Tenuta Pandolfa. It takes its time to open and therefore benefits from a decant and a large glass to match its opulence. Just what we would order with Ragù Alla Bolognese.

Winemaking:

The fruit was fermented in temperature-controlled stainless-steel tanks, including 14 days of skin maceration and followed by malolactic fermentation. The wine was aged for 6 more months in stainless-steel tank and 3 in bottle.

Tasting Notes:

A classic Emilia-Romagna Sangiovese boasting intense dark plum, dark cherry, some ripe red fruit and sweet star anise spice on the nose. The palate is broody with elegant earthy tannins and a moderate acidity that lifts the finish.

2021 Noelia Ricci Bianco Trebbiano ‘Bro’
LUC $36.00

Trebbiano thrives on the sloping hills of Fiumana di Predappio overlooking the Adriatic Sea. As the most widely planted white variety in Emilia-Romagna, it is a popular choice to produce table wines served in the region’s taverns. The whale featured on the ‘Bro’ label is a reference to the sea that once covered the Romagna lands and symbolises the journey into the depths of memories to reminisce. A delight with Basque style grilled turbot.

Winemaking:

The fruit was hand harvested and the must was fermented and macerated on skins for 6 months in temperature-controlled stainless-steel tanks. The wine spent an extra 6 months on lees in tank, then 2 in bottle.

Tasting Notes:

The 2021 Bianco ‘Bro’ Trebbiano is delicately scented with orange blossom, dried wattle, lemon zest and stone fruit characters. The palate is extremely complex with intense flavours of apricot pulp, royal jelly, and salted pistachio. The finish is sapid and persistent with a salty mineral crunch.

Do your best to find this layered, textured and generous wine—it's what we all need. Aromas of lemon zest, lemon oil, baked apples, pressed wildflowers and crushed stone lift from the glass with grace. Fresh on the palate but with gravitas, the wine highlights the citrus notes with hints of roasted orange and honey that are lifted by crunchy acidity and minerality. Drink now–2035. 95 pts. Jeff Porter, Wine Enthusiast

A captivating blend of crushed rocks, spiced orange peels, musky dried apricot and peach wafts up from the 2021 Trebbiano Romagna Bro'. It’s soft-textured yet quickly gains tension. A reverberation of citrus-tinged acidity combines with gingery spice and tart green apple. Nuances of lemon-lime and saline minerals define the finish, as the Bro' tapers off with decent length. This is packed full of character, yet it’s still wound up tight in its youthful state. In the past, I haven’t been fully convinced by this bottling, but the 2021 is a very promising Romagna Trebbiano. 91+ pts. Eric Guido, Vinous

2021 Noelia Ricci Sangiovese ‘Il Sangiovese’
LUC $36.00

Noelia Ricci was born from the ideals of respect for the natural inclination of the land, and a strong desire to return to the origins of how the farmers once made a Sangiovese unique to Predappioin traditions, starting by choosing the very best vineyard sites. The wasp on the label suggests the swift sting of an easy-drinking wine made in celebration of the good old times. Antipasti is a natural combination.

Winemaking:

The different clones of Sangiovese were harvested and vinified separately. Fermentation occurred spontaneously with natural yeast in temperature-controlled stainless-steel tank. The must was macerated on skins for 18 days prior to malolactic fermentation. 70% of it was aged in stainless steel tank, 30% in concrete tanks for 6 months, and the lot for 6 in bottle. The wine was not fined, nor filtered.

Tasting Notes:

This is a charming Sangiovese gifted with bright flavours of black plum, cherry, and freshly cracked pepper, all elegantly framed by chalky tannins and ending with a furtive acid trail.

The 2021 Il Sangiovese Superiore Predappio is floral and perfumed. Wild strawberries, stems, flowery underbrush and rosemary form its bouquet. This washes across the palate with ease, guided by vibrant acidity that helps to enliven its tart wild berry fruit. Masses of violet and lavender define the perfumed finale, as the 2021 finishes grippy yet still wildly fresh. This incredibly pretty vintage of Il Sangiovese is sure to win over many hearts. 90 pts. Eric Guido, Vinous

2020 Noelia Ricci Sangiovese ‘Godenza’
LUC $47.00

The thematic of the ‘Godenza’ Sangiovese is inspired from historical archives of the late nineteenth century. These figures depict a realism that is not quite photographic, but instead leaves room for imagination. The monkey symbolises the traditional stylistic approach to winemaking that goes back to the origins of the local Sangiovese. ‘Godenza’ was the name of the house situated at the highest point of one of the Ricci’s vineyards, laid on a sandstone ridge, which creates unique flavours. Stainless-steel tanks are partly responsible for channelling the freshness of the fruit, whilst the poor, free-draining soils contribute a looseness to this elaborate wine. It should be perfect with cappellacci (stuffed pumpkin ravioli).

Winemaking:

The different clones of Sangiovese were harvested and vinified separately. Fermentation occurred spontaneously with natural yeast in temperature-controlled stainless-steel tank. The must was macerated on skins for 28 days prior to malolactic fermentation. The wine was aged in stainless steel tanks for 9 months, then 12 in bottle. The wine was not fined, nor filtered.

Tasting Notes:

Superior in all aspects. It has incredibly distinct aromas of cherry, ripe strawberries, sage, and dried Italian herbs mixed with leather and cocoa powder. At first, the palate is restrained. Then it lets out a powerful wave of black berry, cherry and a zesty acidity, which offsets the catchy tannins to create a dry, sharply structured finish.


Absolutely delicious, this 100% Sangiovese opens with enticing scents of forest berry, violet, grilled rosemary and camphor. Silky smooth with a creamy texture, the savory palate delivers ripe Marasca cherry, raspberry compote, crushed mint and star anise set against taut, polished tannins. Fresh acidity keeps it balanced. Drink through 2028. 94 pts. Kerin O’Keefe, Wine Ethusiast

The 2020 Sangiovese Romagna Predappio Godenza bursts from the glass with a heady mix of crushed plums, spiced cherry sauce, brown sugar and a lifting trace of mint. It’s silky and round, soothing the senses with textural, ripe red and hints of blue fruit. The Godenza’s minerality appears through the finale, tapering off salty, savory and undeniably spicy. A coating of fine tannins adds a pleasant grip. While highly enjoyable now, the 2020 could use another year of cellaring to come fully into focus. 92 pts. Eric Guido, Vinous

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