Sandro de Bruno
Veneto, Italy
Soave is a patchwork of terroirs and DOCs, so getting your head around the sub-regions is confusing, but also very important in sorting through the 50 million or so bottles produced per year. Inevitably, many of these wines are simple and inexpensive, with the majority of the production coming from the flat, alluvial plains of Soave DOC. The most well known wines are from the Soave Classico DOC, in the centre of the zone and - as the name suggests - the historical producing area of Soave. The third, lesser known DOC is known as Soave Colli Scaglieri DOC, and is not identified by one geographical area, rather certain sections of the zone falling outside of the Classico DOC but still on the famous volcanic soil. And the best part of Colli Scaglieri is the Ronca and Monte Calvarina hills in the Easternmost part.
And it’s in that Eastern part that these wines come from. In fact, if Sandro Tasoniero’s winery were any further East it would fall outside of Soave altogether. Thankfully it doesn’t, and I am equally grateful that Sandro and his wife Marina continue to make beautiful Soave wines despite recently turning the estate towards the production of sparkling Durello, something this sub-region is becoming particularly known for. Garganega, obviously, is still king.
Many producers talk terroir, but not many talk about it as much as Sandro. In fact, so proud of his Suoli Vulcanici (Volcanic Soils) is he, that the wines all wear “100% Suoli Vulcanici” and the accompanying blurb about the sub-region on the front labels!
These are very distinctive wines, unencumbered by artifice and very reflective of exactly where they come from. Pithy, floral and saline, these are wines for lovers of mineral, textural, terroir focussed wines.
2022 Soave ‘Monte San Piero’ DOC
Rich in basalt and volcanic rock, the Monte San Piero vineyard in the famed Monte Calvarina sub-zone of Soave Colli Saligeri is home to Sandro Tasoniero’s flagship. This an outstanding Soave, more oxidatively handled and with a bigger frame, but one that’s able to retain drive and a mineral lightness.
Winemaking
100% Garganega from a 30 year old vineyard in Monte Calvarina at 300m ASL, cold macerated for 18 hours before fermentation in third passage French tonneaux then ageing on fine lees for 18 months (with weekly battonage in the first 6 months) before bottling.
2022 Soave ‘Colli Scaligeri’ DOC
From a gorgeous, sloping vineyard very close to Verona, the Soave Colli Scaglieri is another wine from Sandro de Bruno which over delivers. This single site wine ups the texture, structure and aromatics whilst retaining all the brilliant zing and saltiness that defines the delicious whites from here.
Winemaking
100% Garganega from a 35 year old vineyard in Montecchia at 200-300m ASL, cold macerated for 18 hours before fermentation in stainless steel, then ageing in stainless steel on fine lees for 18 months (with weekly battonage) before bottling. Cork.
Review
“A smoky and honeyed wine with aromas of ripe stone fruit and kerosene. Tingling acidity on the palate despite the delicacy, a light to medium body, a bony texture and pineapple flavors in the finish”
91pts. Aldo Fiordelli, Jancis Robinson
2022 Soave ‘Monte San Piero’ DOC
Rich in basalt and volcanic rock, the Monte San Piero vineyard in the famed Monte Calvarina sub-zone of Soave Colli Saligeri is home to Sandro Tasoniero’s flagship. This an outstanding Soave, more oxidatively handled and with a bigger frame, but one that’s able to retain drive and a mineral lightness.
Winemaking
100% Garganega from a 30 year old vineyard in Monte Calvarina at 300m ASL, cold macerated for 18 hours before fermentation in third passage French tonneaux then ageing on fine lees for 18 months (with weekly battonage in the first 6 months) before bottling.