Castell’in Villa
Castelnuovo Berardenga, Tuscany
Chianti Classico - a viticultural district misunderstood despite its fame and position within the hierarchy of fine Italian wine - has quietly enjoyed somewhat of a renaissance within circles of the vinous elite of late. You could argue it never went away, but there is no doubting that the steamroller that is Barolo, relative upstart Etna and even the local competition from Montalcino since 2010 have meant we have failed to properly acknowledge the fine wines from Chianti Classico even in the most regarded years
From our perspective at least, that all changes today. There's a new jewel in the crown, Castell'in Villa of Castelnuovo Berardenga. Steeped in a fascinating history and still guided by the princess Coralia Pignatelli (of Greek aristocratic descent), the estate pioneered site-specific, premium Chianti Classico crafted with 100% Sangiovese and remains one of the most iconic estates in Tuscany
Walter Speller of Jancis Robinson classified Coralia's three Chianti Classico wines (Chianti Classico, Chianti Classico Riserva and Chianti Classico Riserva 'Poggio delle Rose') in his 'Classifica A' or 'Grand Cru' of Chianti Classico. One of only three estates with the top classification and the only estate with three wines in the top classification. You can find that full article here, as well as a recap of Walter's visit to Castell'in Villa here where he calls the 2010 Riserva (that we are offering today) his favourite of all Chianti Classicos tasted in 2018
In 2013 Antonio Galloni of Vinous posted is own ode to Castell'in Villa in his article 'An Icon Revisited', where he tasted nearly 40 years of Castell'in Villa's Riserva and single vineyard wines. Just last month he praised the 2016 Chianti Classico (offered today) as "a Chianti Classico that will leave readers weak at the knees"
Extended aging is a hallmark feature that’s brought worldwide recognition to Castell’in Villa. The Chianti Classico wines may well qualify for Riserva status while the actual Riserva wines are aged for periods that far exceed the classification’s requirements. Even the current releases are held back to gain complexity and are allowed to refine their uniquely Tuscan aromas and flavours.
Founded in the early 1970’s in Castelnuovo Berardenga by Swiss-born Princess Coralia Pignatelli della Leonessa and her husband Riccardo, the historic Castell’in Villa estate rose to prominence by producing some of the region’s most revered wines. They’ve stood the test of time and trends with grace and aplomb.
After Riccardo’s passing in 1985, Princess Coralia assumed leadership of the operations and, in the process, built one of Tuscany’s most legendary estates. Steadfastly focused on tradition and quality, despite waves of modernisation that saw small barriques conquer many local cellars, she’s stayed true to her purezza (pure) winemaking philosophy.
Today, the Castell’in Villa wines remain a subject of desire, especially thanks to their ability to age gracefully. They boast considerable structure, breathtaking aromatics, and vibrant acidity.
2018 Chianti Classico
The Chianti Classico is made of 100% Sangiovese blended using the best bunches from the estate’s original vineyards. The vines sit between 250 and 320 meters above sea level and they’re an average of 10-15 years. A definitive expression of Sangiovese, it accounts for most of the estate production.
Winemaking:
The Chianti Classico is made of 100% Sangiovese blended using the best bunches from the estate’s original vineyards. The vines sit between 250 and 320 meters above sea level and they’re an average of 10-15 years. A definitive expression of Sangiovese, it accounts for most of the estate production.
Tasting Notes:
It’s showing archetypical Sangiovese aromas, earthy, spicy, and vibrant red fruit, and the comforting scents of lanolin, orange oil and rose water. The palate is beautifully defined, with fine yet arresting tannins and an energetic acidity that only give the wine latitude and presence.
“Princess Coralia Pignatelli della Leonessa has presided over Castell’in Villa with a resolute hand since 1971 and shows no sign of wavering. She likes body and power in her wines, which she felt the 2018 vintage didn’t possess. As such, she declined making a Riserva in order to release this solid annata. It's delicate and fragrant - but persistently so. Orange, iron and wild rose scents are arresting. Deceptively slim in build yet with depth, the tannins are steely, and the acidity is piercing. The latter will carry the wine and it may age longer than anticipated. No excess baggage here.” Drinking window 2023 – 2033. 93pts, Michaela Morris, Decanter.
“Just mid ruby with orange tinges. Subdued but complex nose of brooding fruit and a touch of exotic spice and stones. The juicy fruit slowly unfurls on the palate. Truly fine tannins line the emerging fruit. Stunning balance.” 18/20pts Walter Speller, Jancis Robinson