Castell’in Villa
Castelnuovo Berardenga, Tuscany
Chianti Classico - a viticultural district misunderstood despite its fame and position within the hierarchy of fine Italian wine - has quietly enjoyed somewhat of a renaissance within circles of the vinous elite of late. You could argue it never went away, but there is no doubting that the steamroller that is Barolo, relative upstart Etna and even the local competition from Montalcino since 2010 have meant we have failed to properly acknowledge the fine wines from Chianti Classico even in the most regarded years
From our perspective at least, that all changes today. There's a new jewel in the crown, Castell'in Villa of Castelnuovo Berardenga. Steeped in a fascinating history and still guided by the princess Coralia Pignatelli (of Greek aristocratic descent), the estate pioneered site-specific, premium Chianti Classico crafted with 100% Sangiovese and remains one of the most iconic estates in Tuscany
Walter Speller of Jancis Robinson classified Coralia's three Chianti Classico wines (Chianti Classico, Chianti Classico Riserva and Chianti Classico Riserva 'Poggio delle Rose') in his 'Classifica A' or 'Grand Cru' of Chianti Classico. One of only three estates with the top classification and the only estate with three wines in the top classification. You can find that full article here, as well as a recap of Walter's visit to Castell'in Villa here where he calls the 2010 Riserva (that we are offering today) his favourite of all Chianti Classicos tasted in 2018
In 2013 Antonio Galloni of Vinous posted is own ode to Castell'in Villa in his article 'An Icon Revisited', where he tasted nearly 40 years of Castell'in Villa's Riserva and single vineyard wines. Just last month he praised the 2016 Chianti Classico (offered today) as "a Chianti Classico that will leave readers weak at the knees"
Extended aging is a hallmark feature that’s brought worldwide recognition to Castell’in Villa. The Chianti Classico wines may well qualify for Riserva status while the actual Riserva wines are aged for periods that far exceed the classification’s requirements. Even the current releases are held back to gain complexity and are allowed to refine their uniquely Tuscan aromas and flavours.
Founded in the early 1970’s in Castelnuovo Berardenga by Swiss-born Princess Coralia Pignatelli della Leonessa and her husband Riccardo, the historic Castell’in Villa estate rose to prominence by producing some of the region’s most revered wines. They’ve stood the test of time and trends with grace and aplomb.
After Riccardo’s passing in 1985, Princess Coralia assumed leadership of the operations and, in the process, built one of Tuscany’s most legendary estates. Steadfastly focused on tradition and quality, despite waves of modernisation that saw small barriques conquer many local cellars, she’s stayed true to her purezza (pure) winemaking philosophy.
Today, the Castell’in Villa wines remain a subject of desire, especially thanks to their ability to age gracefully. They boast considerable structure, breathtaking aromatics, and vibrant acidity.
2020 Chianti Classico
Made entirely from Sangiovese, the 2020 Chianti Classico comes from the estate’s historic vineyards, planted between 250 and 320 metres above sea level.
The vines, averaging 10 to 15 years of age, benefited from a balanced season with a cool spring, warm summer days and refreshing nights that preserved freshness and aromatic clarity.
Winemaking
Fermentation takes place with indigenous yeasts in stainless steel tanks at controlled temperatures, followed by malolactic conversion and ageing in large Slavonian oak barrels for three years.
Tasting Notes
The result is a vibrant and elegant expression of Sangiovese, showing ripe cherry, plum and gentle spice on the nose, with supple tannins, freshness and a mineral finish that reflects the estate’s terroir.
Reviews
“The 2020 Chianti Classico is a gorgeous wine from Castell’in Villa. Soft contours are the first sign of a rare young Chianti Classico from this estate that will drink well with minimal cellaring.
Dark wild cherry, cedar and pipe tobacco open first. The 2020 offers gorgeous dark Sangiovese fruit along with all of the structure that is so typical of the wines here. Plum, graphite, leather, incense and dried herbs shape the striking finish. What an absolute delight!.”
Antonio Galloni, Vinous. 93pts
“There is incredible subtle complexity in this Chianti Classico. The nose shows licorice, bergamot, potpourri, violets and red cherries. The palate is graceful, with vibrant blood orange flavors, refreshing acidity and velvety, fine-grained tannins.”
James Suckling. 96pts
“Widowed in 1985, Princess Coralia Pignatelli della Leonessa immediately took charge of the estate. She gleaned knowledge from the best consultants and continues to work with Federico Starderini (think Poggio di Sotto) today. Direction and decisions are always ultimately and unequivocally hers. The 2020 evokes that resolve – as well as the region’s wild terrain and luminous ambience. Sundried cherry, dusty earth, scrubby brush and a touch of meat swirl from the glass. The palate is packed with substance and flavour, intersected by a tingly spine of acidity. It delivers sunshine, with firm structure all the way through the long, stony-mineral finish.”
Michaela Morris, Decanter. 94pts
“Still quite tight and a little closed on the nose with perfumed cherry fruit and peppery minerally notes. Fluid cherry fruit with bags of firm gripping tannins and lifted acidity. Very long and focused and in no hurry to be drunk.”
Walter Speller, JancisRobsinon.com. 17++ pts
“To taste a Castell’In Villa this early seems unusual to say the least and maybe even wrong. These are some of Chianti Classico’s longest lived wines, even at the Annata level and yet…and yet there is joy, light and promise right from the start. Hard to believe but here we are in the modern world and the house rolls with the changes – with no compromise to structure.”
Michael Godel, Wine Align. 94pts
2019 Chianti Classico Riserva
The 2019 Riserva is the most refined expression of Castell’in Villa’s Sangiovese. It is sourced from select bunches in the estate’s oldest vineyards and shaped by a season of cool spring weather, moderate summer warmth and balanced ripening conditions that enhanced both freshness and complexity.
Winemaking
After fermentation with native yeasts, the wine is matured for more than 40 months in large oak barrels before further ageing in bottle. This long maturation brings a deep and complex nose of red cherry, dried flowers, spice, tobacco and iron.
Tasting Notes
Elegant and long lived, the 2019 Riserva captures the depth and poise of a classic vintage.
Reviews
“A deep and complex wine with elegant aromas of potpourri, dried cherries, licorice and earthy minerality. Graceful palate despite the structure, with dusty yet ripe tannins, refreshing acidity, expressive dried flowers and a long aftertaste. ”
James Suckling. 97pts
“Castell’in Villa’s Riserva is crafted from the estate’s higher altitude plots at over 300m. After forgoing this bottling in 2018, proprietress Coralia Pignatelli follows up the striking 2017 release with this austerely captivating 2019. It is classically savoury with discreet scents of sundried tomato, chestnut, roasted coffee and rust. After much aeration, sweeter nuances of macerated cherry, thyme and almond emerge. The palate is unquestionably strict and linear: stony tannins and brisk acidity make for a steely backbone. While far from rich or plush, it does have meat on its bones, and very toned muscles. It hints at blood and liquorice throughout, with a salty mineral finish.”
Michaela Morris, Decanter. 97pts
“Lustrous, maturing ruby with orange tinges. Sensuous balsamic nose, not fully open yet and with hints of garden herbs. Sleek, polished and slow to emerge with raspberry fruit and tangy acidity that fits the fruit like a glove. Very long and precise, with gorgeous fine tannins. In a class of its own.”
Walter Speller, Jancis Robinson. 18+pt
“The 2019 Chianti Classico Riserva is a bomb. Castell'in Villa fans will find a heady, explosive Riserva that hits all the right notes. Dark cherry, plum, new leather, cedar and grilled herbs give this broad-shouldered Riserva tons of intensity. The 2019 can be approached now, but it will be even better in a few years' time. Superb.”
Antonio Galloni, Vinous. 95pts
2000 Vin Santo del Chianti Classico
Castell’in Villa’s Vinsanto is produced in very limited quantities and aged in small chestnut barrels with the “mother” inherited from generations past. Grapes are carefully dried before fermentation, then the wine rests undisturbed for decades in the estate’s cellars, slowly developing its unique complexity.
The result is profound, rich with dried fruit, honey, spice and toasted nuts, balanced by freshness and length.
The Vinsanto embodies the history and tradition of Castell’in Villa, standing as an authentic expressions of Tuscan winemaking heritage.
Review
“The 2000 Vin Santo del Chianti Classico is the current release from Castell'in Villa, an estate where time moves at its own pace, undisturbed by the frenzy of today's world. Aromatic, gracious and light on its feet, the 2000 is a total delight. Scents of dried fig, white flowers, mint, cinnamon and orange peel confer freshness. The 2000 wears the gentle patina of age gracefully. It's all understatement and class here.”
Antonio Galloni, Vinous. 94pts