Cobaw Ridge
Macedon Rangers, Victoria
Alan and Nelly Cooper were perhaps the original low intervention vignerons and winemakers in Australia, planting the first vines for Cobaw Ridge in Macedon in 1985 and always tending towards organic viticulture though they were not fully certified until (the vines were mature enough) way later in 2009. The next evolution was full biodynamic certification which was achieved shortly after in 2011.
The true embodiment of the adage that ’wine is made in the vineyard’, the Coopers are first and foremost viticulturalists (Alan a fifth generation farmer) and work in the winery is limited to the manual processes of crushing, pressing and racking.
Subjectivity is inherent to wine. So, when wines of the Cobaw Ridge range’s calibre get so unanimously endorsed and treasured, we can’t help but feel a sense of validation in our long-time journey with these wines. Indeed, we found true definition and detailed structure, extreme purity and a vivid sense of place that was only ever witnessed in the greatest Australian icons.
What’s in a name? Everything
The region was named Cobaw, from the aboriginal word Cobar meaning the Earth, and Cobbra meaning Head (the highest point behind the property marks the start of the granite incursion in this area and extends northwest to Harcourt and to the northeast, to just south of Heathcote).
The vineyards are situated on the northern cusp of the Great Dividing Range of the Macedon Ranges GI. The acute northern aspect gives Cobaw Ridge some margin of success in most years; the sweetness and flavour aren’t forced out of the fruit, but instead gently coaxed out in this a warm, natural amphitheatre within a cool area.
A deep-rooted sense of place
Cobaw Ridge encompasses a total of 12 acres of vines, with roughly 3.5 acres each dedicated to Chardonnay, Syrah, Pinot Noir, and the balance to Lagrein. The first vines were planted between 1985 (when Nelly and Alan Cooper first planted their Cobaw Ridge vineyard) and 1986. Lagrein was added in 1992. The altitude ranges from 610m to 635m above sea-level.
The vines grow deep in the granitic mountain soil. They strive to produce grapes of superb balance. The marginality of this special site and the Cooper’s commitment to sustainable and natural practices (first organic, then, in 2011, biodynamic) have a lot to do with the strong sense of place and time the wines convey; they do not resort to any additions, fining, filtration, or stabilisation. Minimal sulphites are used prior to bottling.
2022 Pyrenees Syrah Rose
With Rosé clearly in mind as the frontrunner, they decided to produce a Syrah rosé from organic fruit and in identical fashion as they would the Ilpinko. The only exception being that some was fermented and matured in Terracotta Tinajas as opposed to Qvevri.
Winemaking:
The fruit comes from the famed Shays Flat vineyard, where they found and abundance of shale, mudstone, quartz, and iron loam topsoil, all of which vividly show through in the wine. The fruit underwent a soft whole bunch pressing. The wine was fermented and matured in large oak and terracotta Tinajas amphora and no additions were made until after malolactic conversion and blending, and prior to bottling.
Tasting Note:
A new wine from Cobaw Ridge and one that took a bit of deliberation. Indeed, this is an excursion off the estate, sourced from Shay’s Flat in the Pyrenees, a certified organic site that a few Central Vic winemakers know well. This one is made in the Cobaw Tinajas, a suite of terracotta amphora that house other of their ‘domestic’ wines. Intrigue!
It’s a salty, minerally, high toned rose with a strong sense of tart red berries, crunchy cranberry, dusting of herbal, near alpine greenery and a whiff of white balsamic to lift it all. The palate is minerally plus, in the parlance, and shows more of the bouquet with a decided zing that feels refreshing and interesting though some technocrats may take umbrage, and fair enough. Crispness and crunch in that texture too – thank you for refreshing each sip – though you’d also call it a little hazy. Lovely stuff. 93 pts. Mike Bennie, The Wine Front
2022 Pyrenees Grenache
An obvious strong contender, Grenache is fit to boast the abundant mineral trails that cross the stellar Landsborough vineyard. Choosing pristine organic fruit meant that the wine virtually made itself, according to Nelly and Alan.
Winemaking:
All the attributes of the mudstone, quartz and shale soil seem to be amplified here. The fruit was gently destemmed, leaving some 15% whole bunches at the bottom of the fermenter. It was pumped over for a couple of days, then hand plunged until dry. The wine was basket pressed and aged in newer large format oak. It has no additions apart from minimal sulphites.
Tasting Note:
Quite a riper style compared to their more classically produced Cobaw Ridge super cool Syrah. For a richer style it has amazing poise, balance and finesse.
For grenache enthusiasts, and those that know their way around a Cobaw Ridge wine or two, this should be a pretty exciting proposition even before pouring a glass. Shay’s Flat vineyard, Pyrenees, organic (certified) vines and the x-factor of the great Cooper family. A coup. New wine, new horizon away from the family farm.
While it ‘s got some concentration and slurp to it there’s a strong sheath of lacy, minerally tannin, some grunty, dried herb/minty/alpine elements and shiitake mushroom in the mix of scents and flavours, alongside a blood orange tang of acidity and a rise of gravelly earthiness. It’s substantial in its way but tightens up to a lingering chew and pucker. Structure galore. A serious feeling grenache but with that succulence and drinkability of best-of grenache examples from cooler places around the globe, and can we say a nebbiolo-like energy and draw of tannin. Fantastic, is the message. 95 pts. Mike Bennie, The Wine Front
2021 ‘Il Pinko’ Syrah Rosé
The il Pinko is probably the most revered of the Cobaw Ridge wines. It’s produced using a combination of qvevri and old barrels. The estate Syrah, which was specifically harvested for rosé, makes a singular rosé with an impeccable track record. It’s full of flavour, yet it has an elegant restraint and promises to constantly evolve on the palate with finely framed tannins, flavours that are savoury, spicy and lip-smackingly generous in fruit all at once.
Winemaking:
The organically and biodynamically grown fruit was picked by the end of April. It was kept intact without the use of sulphur so as to retain colour and allow full malolactic conversion. The wine was left to settle overnight in tank, then rough racked. Then, it was transferred to a mixture of qvevri and large old French oak barrels, where it matured for 12 months. It was gently racked to tank, where it settled on extra fine lees. Once malolactic conversion was complete, sulphur was added. The wine was finally racked off its light lees and bottled in July. It was not filtered nor fined.
”Il Pinko is the wine built around the most interesting and distinct expressions of wine made from that vintage – a moving feast. This year we get a syrah rose, and while rose has featured before in the Il Pinko livery, I don’t believe it was produced as this one, in both qvevri and old oak. *Alan Cooper has informed me this IS the methodology since 2016, albeit in 2021 Spanish clay vessels were introduced.
Tasted even at room temperature this is a delight. Succulent, layered with exotic spice and brambly, peppery green herbs, sloshes of pomegranate juice and pickled cherries, a slip of hazelnut and something akin to the botanicals from alpine amaros. This is stunning; released in technicolour and 4D. Silky texture that fines perk from minerally acidity, a faint sheath of tannin, extraordinary length and a sense of the palate being saturated in all and sundry flavours and textures. In essence, world class rose. Don’t drink too cold – or cold at all!” 96pts. Mike Bennie, The Wine Front
2021 Chardonnay
Perhaps the most integral wine in the range, it transcends basic concepts of great Australian Chardonnay, by offering more reductive mineral characters and plenty of flesh on the finely structured bones. This is a marvellous achievement considering the altitude and climate of this biodynamic vineyard. This wine gives real insight into the complex nature of Chardonnay crafted without the pretence of superfluous winemaking.
Winemaking:
The organically and biodynamically grown fruit was picked at the beginning of April, then whole bunch pressed to tank. The juice was left to settle overnight and transferred to a mixture of small and large French oak barrels, of which 25% were new. It was naturally fermented and went through malolactic fermentation in barrel. The wine was finally aged in oak for 12 months and in tank on gross lees for 3 months. It was not filtered nor fined.
Tasting Note:
”Well, here’s a live one. A flintier, perhaps more saline launching pad this year. Tighter and leaner. Fresh. It’s unreal. Unnerving consistency. Lemon zest, grapefruit juice, flint and sea spray. Scents and flavours high-fiving. It’s just so darn good to drink! Frisky and cool, licked at with alpine herbs and that saline minerally twang, but concentrated too, long, luxuriously so and gently palate staining despite its racier frame. And in that, still stacks of proper chardonnay flavour – razor sliced, just ripe stone fruits, green apple and its tart crunch, faint cashew nut savouriness, a lick of parmesan rind and all that glorious coolness through its epic, mouth-watering, lingering delight. Sheesh. This is outstanding.” 96+pts. Mike Bennie, The Wine Front
2021 Pinot Noir
The Cobaw Ridge Pinot Noir is the result of fine and thoughtful vineyard management, channelled beautifully by low impact winemaking. It shows both Nelly and Alan’s expertise and the region’s character so effortlessly. It’s built for the long-haul with tannin, acid, and fruit to boot. It’s all there.
Winemaking:
The organically and biodynamically grown fruit was picked over 3 days to separate the different clones (29th March, 7th April and 11th of April). About 1/3 of the fruit was from their multi clonal, high-density planting (7,000 vines per hectare). 10% of the bunches were kept whole and placed at the base of small open fermenters, while the balance, fully destemmed, was placed on top. It was gently pumped over for a few days then plunged once natural fermentation had kicked in. It was basket pressed after 3 weeks on skins. The juice was settled in tank, then transferred to small oak, 25% of which were new. It was naturally fermented and went through malolactic fermentation in barrel for 12 months. It was not filtered nor fined and minimally sulphured before bottling in July 2022.
2019 Syrah
As the founders of the only certified organic and biodynamic estate in Macedon Ranges, Alan and Nelly Cooper are proud of their minimalist approach, where sulphur is the only addition in the winery and qvevris, these ancient Georgian fermentation vessels, are the fermenters of choice. The slender, cool climate wines of Cobaw Ridge are deceivingly complex and balanced, and they exude the sort of gravitas that has propelled them into the Australian icons’ stratosphere.
Winemaking:
The estate-grown, organic, and biodynamic fruit was hand-picked early April 2019. 10% of whole bunches was added to the base of the fermenter while the rest was destemmed and thrown on top for a natural fermentation. The must was hand plunged and macerated on skins for 15 days before it was basket pressed to tank. The wine was racked to small French oak barrels (30% new), where it also went through full malolactic fermentation. The wine was aged in oak for 2 years, and finally bottled unfined and unfiltered mid-July 2021 with minimal sulphur. It was matured in bottle for 10 months before release. 72 dozen were produced.
Tasting Notes:
Here is a wine of idiosyncratic stature, for its biodynamic origins and especially the unique rendition of cool climate Syrah it offers – plush, energetic with slick sour cherry, graphite minerality, dried herbs, and a touch of freshly ground pepper for extra varietal authenticity. 94pts. Mike Bennie, The Wine Front
2019 Lagrein
What do Macedon Ranges and Südtirol have in common? Dense alpine forests, high-perched, undulating vineyards and Lagrein. Cobaw Ridge has been leading the Australian conversation about this sought-after variety since first producing it in 1997. Alan and Nelly have been doing so by committing to quality in all aspects of vineyard management and winemaking, leveraging the natural harmony between their 17 to 25-year-old vines and the natural amphitheatre they find themselves in.
Winemaking:
The estate-grown, organic, and biodynamic fruit was hand-picked early April 2019, then destemmed and transferred to small open vats for natural primary and secondary fermentations. The must was hand plunged for 15 days before it was basket pressed to tank, then racked to a single second fill small French oak barrel. The wine was aged in oak for 2 years, and finally bottled unfined and unfiltered in mid-July 2021 with minimal sulphur. 22 dozen were produced.
Tasting Notes:
Here is a varietally expressive wine showing abundant savoury and mineral characters intertwined with floral aromas, and intense notes of dark cherries, sweet spice, and liquorice. It has supple tannins and a juicy acidity, hallmarks of excellence and longevity.