Delinquente
Riverland, South Australia
Greg Grigoriou grew up in South Australia’s Riverland district, surrounded by pioneering European immigrant families who built the identity of the region in the mid to late part of the 20th century. When his own label ‘Delinquente’ launched, he was keen to show his region in a light that it hadn’t been before; bright and energetic wines from varieties suited to the climate that could be grown in a sustainable manner.
Greg works closely with his growers from planting to harvest, and most of the fruit is certified Biodynamic Fast forward some years and Delinquente is a young brand success story, Greg’s thoughtful decisions to shun more conventional Riverland varieties, styles and packaging has led to a cult-like following for his label around Australia and other important global markets. Everything in the range is limited, everything in the range is delicious.
2023 Pet Nat Bianco ‘Tuff Nut’
Clean, lean and refreshing as hell – the Bianco Pet Nat this year firmly sits in the thirst quenching zone. Ripe tropical fruits burst from the glass on the nose, while the palate leans into the citrus spectrum – preserved lemon, briney saltiness, but again with a lemon curd creaminess that satisfy just so. Acid for days, and at 9.5% ABV, this wine performs a true disappearing act from the bottle.
Fermented in stainless steel with wild vineyard yeast, the wine was bottled under crown seal to finish ferment, resulting in the Petillant Naturel, lightly sparkling style. The Sherwood Estate in Loxton North, owned by the Proud family, has the only planting of Bianco d’Alessano in Australia – a late ripening, aromatic variety that holds acid beautifully and is completely at home in the hot dry Riverland climate.
2023 Pet Nat Rose ‘Weeping Juan’
The party is back! Hazy pink in the glass, lush, sweet aromatic spices jump out up front – vanilla, cinnamon, coconut – mum’s fruit toast is where I always go with this wine and it’s here again. On the palate is underripe strawberry, with a fuji apple, watermelon rind cleanness and crunch. Just a mild spritz this year and a touch of fruit sweetness is balance by the lovely crunchy acidity – the two working together to provide a length that goes on and on. Hot day, ice cold, by a body of water – you can drink nothing better.
Sourced from the Bassham Family Organic and Biodynamic vineyard in Barmera, each variety was picked and fermented separately - the final wine blended and bottled just prior to the Nero d’Avola finishing ferment to create the Petillant Naturel style sparkling.
2023 Pet Nat Negroamaro ‘Amaya’
Dark pink in the glass with heady bubbles, the nose leads you into that dark fruit zone – blackberry, boysenberry, with a touch of savoury herb – aniseed, fennel seed. On the mouth though, it’s all broad, mouth puckering acidity, fresh and piercing. Black cherry fruitiness really playing second fiddle to the bright crunch, the slightly bitter saltiness of marjoram/tarragon herb characters providing more length and interest. Just really yum and fun, but with layers of flavour that invite further thought.
Fermented in stainless steel with wild vineyard yeast, the wine was bottled under crown seal to finish ferment, resulting in the Petillant Naturel, lightly sparkling style. The Negroamaro for this wine was sourced from the Sherwood Estate in Loxton North, owned by the Proud family – third generation grape growers who have introduced Southern Italian varieties into their vineyards with great success.
2023 Vermentino ‘Screaming Betty’
Bold and bright, a distinct passionfruit, tropical vibe presents up front, a new-ish feel for the Vermentino this year. Structural and herbaceous – lemon thyme grassiness holds fort on the palate with a subdued citrus, stonefruit push providing a counterpoint in the background. Classic Vermentino on the finish – briney, seaspray savouriness again turned up a little – lots of flavour, lovely acidity, really putting itself out there this year.
Wild fermented in stainless steel, the wine also spent 4 weeks on fine lees, stirred twice weekly, giving it a beautiful, textural edge not often found in Australian Vermentino’s. The cooler vintage conditions meant that acids remained high, even as sugar levels increased and flavours developed, meaning we have a little higher ABV than previous years, but also more depth of flavour, whilst not compromising freshness and drinkability.
2023 Bianco Macerato ‘Jaybird’
The Bianco Macerato is an easy drinking, approachable skin contact white wine. Each parcel was fermented separately – the Chardonnay was pressed off skins straight away, while the Vermentino, Malvasia and Arinto were fermented on skins until sugar dry, up to 14 days. Each parcel was allowed to go through malolactic fermentation and settle out before being blended just prior to bottling.
The combination of fruit forward, acid driven and aromatic varieties, combined with extended skin contact, creates a wine that is at once thought provoking, interesting, but also refreshing and delicious. The nose is aromatic as – canned lychee, orange blossom – floral and super fresh. The upfront citrus hit of pink grapefruit and briney lemon makes way for the crunchy buzz of savoury, herbaceous tannin – not overpowering, but lingering. The characteristic acid from the Arinto ties it all together and provides length.
2023 Nero d’Avola Rosato ‘Pretty Boy’
Despite some challenges, a fantastic year for Nero d’Avola and a truly exciting Rosato has come forth. The nose charges at you with candied strawberry, rose petal, and that ubiquitous but undeniable strawberries and cream aroma that just keeps going and going. On the palate, a certain elegance – these fruit forward flavours persist, while the classic Nero d’Avola acidity comes in to keep things fresh and crunchy; evolving the flavours into a slightly underripe stonefruit spectrum – white peach or nectarine. The most in balance and engaging Rosato we’ve made for a few years, and everything we want to see from this wine.
Wild fermented in stainless steel, Nero d’Avola is a native Sicilian variety that is perfectly suited to the hot, dry climate of the Riverland. After crushing, the fruit was left to soak on skins for 6 hours, giving the wine it’s the lovely blush pink colour – maybe a little lighter than the previous few years. The cooler vintage conditions meant that acids remained high, even as sugar levels increased and flavours developed, meaning we have a little higher ABV than previous years, but also more depth of flavour, whilst not compromising freshness and drinkability.
2023 Negroamaro/Nero ‘Roxanne the Razor’
This wine is our attempt at essentially trying to emulate a light, cool climate red, with Negroamaro and Nero d’Avola being the perfect varieties for the task. The nose this year has a certain intensity – perfumed olive tapenade richness and savouriness belies the lightness on the palate. Fruit forward up front – maraschino cherry, spiced plum and quince – makes way for second half of lovely earthy, amaro-esque savouriness; cola berry/chinotto characters with a burnt orange undertone. These bitter, herbaceous moments work in tandem with the elevated, juicy fruit, held together by a touch of fuzzy tannin and grippy mouthfeel, to make a very, very drinkable, medium bodied red.
Negroamaro and Nero d’Avola are the two varieties that are perfectly suited to the hot, dry Riverland and the nature of the wines we want to make. The cooler vintage conditions meant that acids remained high and flavours developed intensity and nuance. Wild fermented in stainless steel, each parcel was picked and fermented separately, and blended prior to bottling.
2023 Montepulciano ‘Roko il Vagabondo’
The “Monte” is an uncomplicated red wine that provides flavour and energy in spades. The thick skins provide a lovely, dark purple colour, and while the nose gives a feeling of power and intensity, the palate opens with a lovely, puckering fruit character, like a basket of freshly picked, maybe slightly underripe, but delicious mixed berries. The finish brings that tannin and those grippy, savoury elements back into play, while the acid keeps the freshness and length going. Pasta, pizza, BBQ, Salt and Vinegar Pringles – whatever, it’s a wine for all seasons.
The fruit was harvested from two different patches on the Bassham Family Organic vineyard, on separate days about a week apart. Each pick was fermented separately and blended together just prior to bottling. The earlier pick carried a lovely tart acidity and green energy, usually associated with whole bunch fermented wines, while the later pick gives palate weight and the deeper fruit character for drinkability – the final blend bringing both parcels together in a really awesome way.