Luigi Giordano
Barbaresco, Piedmont
Not far from the centre of Barbaresco, among the hills that border the sinuous Tanaro river, the Luigi Giordano estate was founded by Giovanni Giordano in the 1930s. The Italian wine world was going through profound changes and challenges then. So, after having grown and sold grapes for most of the estate’s existence, Giovani’s son, Luigi decided to vinify the grapes himself from 1960. His decision to highlight the potential of the terroir and go down the path of quality winemaking paved the way for many other Barbaresco producers of his time.
Today, it’s the only fifth-generation winery owning vineyards planted in some of Barbaresco’s most prestigious crus, including Asili and Montestefano, and Cavanna. The Cavanna cru epitomises Luigi Giordano’s hands-off winemaking style and constitutes the only (a monopole) single-vineyard cru of its kind on the market.
It boasts over 7 hectares of vineyards, most of which are dedicated to “denominazione di origine” status Barbaresco. Luigi’s grandson and now custodian, Matteo Rocca, cultivates traditional local varieties. You’ll find the noble Nebbiolo, its generous counterparts, Dolcetto and Barbera, along with Freisa and more recently Arneis, the only white and one of the most popular Piedmontese whites on the international wine scene.
Matteo’s ambition is guided by a deep respect for his grandfather’s elegant and loyally traditional style. Long maceration time on skins and maturation in large botti are the defining features of wines that gain in definition and detail every year, continuing to honour the impressive sites they hail from.
2024 Langhe Arneis
As varietal and expressive as it is refreshing, Giordano’s Arneis further reinforces the strength of the Langhe in producing whites of character.
The wine retains a clean acid line and white floral aromatics.
Winemaking:
Harvested early and pressed as whole-clusters with no skin-contact, ferment temperatures are kept low for around 20 days to preserve natural acidity and avoid hard tannin extraction. Maturation on lees in stainless steel builds detail and texture.
Tasting Notes:
A bright, expressive white that captures the delicate charm of Arneis. Pale straw in colour, the nose is lifted and floral, with notes of white pear, chamomile, lemon zest and wild herbs. The palate is zippy and textural, balancing stone fruit with a lightly saline finish. A precise and mineral take on Arneis.
2024 Vino Rosso
The fruit comes from various parts of Luigi Giordano’s plots. The Vino Rosso is a blend of indigenous grapes.
Winemaking:
80% Nebbiolo, 20% Roero Arneis co-fermented. Low maceration (4-5 days) to preserve the freshness of the wine.
Tasting Notes:
A Nebbiolo dominant blend, this wine is light, lithe and refreshing. It’s made of a super unique blend including 20% Roero Arneis, which adds aromatics and lift to the wine, softening the tannins. This brilliantly easy-drinking, chillable red, is translucent ruby in the glass, filled with ripe strawberry, red cherry, fleshy peach characters, and dried rose petals, the Nebbiolo signature feature.
Reviews
It’s almost like a bigger rosato in a way. Raspberry, red cherry, white peach, red apple, a little spice and rosy perfume. It’s light and crisp, a light dusty grip to tannin, a little white pepper in the mix kind of like a proxy Pelaverga, with a fresh and lively finish of juiciness, spice and good length. It’s dry, offers some complexity, and drinks very well. It’s quirky, but gee it works. Love it.
93pts. Gary Walsh, The Wine Front
2023 Dolcetto d’Alba
Coming from the Qualin subzone in Barbaresco, this is an east-facing exposure and an ideal site for Dolcetto. The planting aspect allows evenr ripening and retention of vibrant aromatics.
Winemaking:
100% Dolcetto. Fermented on skins for 7–8 days without temperature intervention to allow for a natural, expressive fermentation. Aged for at least four months in cement tanks before bottling, with malolactic fermentation completed in stainless steel.
Tasting Notes:
Unmistakably Piedmontese, this is dark-fruited and juicy. Deep ruby in the glass with aromas of wild blackberry, violet and bitter almond. The palate is supple yet structured, with fresh acidity and refined tannic grip
2022 Langhe Freisa
The fruit comes from Valle dei Salici (“valley of the willows”), a subzone of Barbaresco planted in 1970. With an east-facing exposure and 240m elevation, it offers ideal conditions for Freisa.
Winemaking:
The grapes are gently destemmed and spend 10–15 days on skins with regular pumpovers, followed by spontaneous fermentation and a year in stainless steel.
Tasting Notes:
Genetically related to Nebbiolo, Freisa shares its firm tannic structure, making this a wine with both savoury grip and ageing potential.
Aromas of maraschino cherry, spiced plum and dried herbs. The palate is intense and rustic, with sour plum and rhubarb supported by chewy tannins.
2023 Langhe Nebbiolo
Giordano’s Langhe Nebbiolo is sourced from several Barbaresco vineyards, including Carlinet, Buschet, Ronchi and Cavanna.
Winemaking:
The fruit was gently destemmed and macerated on skins for 15–20 days with frequent pumpovers to preserve freshness and extract colour. Fermentation occurred naturally in stainless steel, followed by 12 months of ageing in a mix of stainless steel and concrete tanks.
Tasting Note:
This is a light to medium-bodied expression of Nebbiolo with bright red fruits, dried herbs and subtle spice. The palate is brisk and finely structured, with fresh acidity, a bony tannin grip, and a savoury finish. As effortless as it is charming.
Reviews
I’ve enjoyed most of the 2023 Langhe wines I’ve tried so far. They’re not especially concentrated, though they make up for that with brightness and perfume. This is all Barbaresco grapes, fermented in stainless, with 12 months in cement tank.
Strawberry, red cherry, spice and aniseed, some dried herb and floral perfume. It’s medium-bodied, has some cranberry crunch to acidity, a light dusty tannin grip, juicy red fruits and blood orange, with a lively finish of good length. It’s a lovely wine, quite frisky, or brightly lit, and beautifully turned out.
92pts. Gary Walsh, The Wine Front
2022 Barbaresco ‘Cavanna’
Cavanna is a historical cru located just below the tower of Barbaresco, the closest subzone to the village centre. Its west to southwest exposure and soils of Sant'Agata fossil marls and silt overlook the Tanaro River, creating unique microclimatic conditions. The vineyard, planted between 1988 and 2006, is divided into three parcels and is considered Luigi Giordano’s most prized site. First vinified as a single vineyard in 1971, it remains the only wine in their range to bear the Cavanna name on the label.
Winemaking:
After gentle destemming, the fruit was macerated on skins for 15 to 20 days and fermented in stainless steel. The wine then matured for 18 to 24 months in large Slavonian oak casks (30–50 hL), followed by 6 months in bottle before release.
Tasting Note:
Aromatic and expressive, this wine opens with an intense mix of sweet and savoury spices, warmed roses, raspberry and wild herbs. The palate is generous yet precise, with tart cherry and redcurrant flavours layered over subtle notes of tea and earth. The finish is long and elegant, framed by fine-grained tannins.
Reviews
Cavanna sits to the left of the village of Barbaresco, kind of in the same way Paiagallo does in Barolo. Both vineyards perhaps suffer from being a little undersung in that context. Just an observation.
Red fruits, tea, roses and liquorice root and mint perfume, almond paste. It’s medium to full-bodied, has energy and juiciness of raspberry and red cherry, a fine grain to tannin, a savoury and earthy character, quite specific in a way, with good length. It’s maybe a little rugged but the perfume and class of this wine is very appealing. Has some liquorice amaro flavours to close. Perhaps the best wine from this excellent producer in 2022, at least for me.
93pts. Gary Walsh, The Wine Front
2022 Barbaresco ‘Asili’
Asili is one of Barbaresco’s most prestigious vineyards, known for its light-grey Sant’Agata fossil marl and sandy soils that create wines of exceptional finesse and elegance. Its southeast exposure and cool microclimate allow for slow, balanced ripening.
Winemaking:
The Nebbiolo grapes are macerated for 20–25 days in temperature-controlled stainless steel, followed by malolactic fermentation in steel. The wine then ages 18–24 months in large, seasoned Slavonian oak barrels before bottling.
Tasting Note:
Refined and elegant, Asili displays delicate aromas of red cherry, rose petals, and subtle spices. The palate is silky with bright acidity, fine tannins, and persistent notes of red fruit and earthy complexity.
Reviews
Asili at $145 seems kind of reasonable in this day and age!
Cherry, liquorice, a rosy perfume with some brown spices, a slight lift. It’s maybe a little too fleshy and sightly baked, though it still offers perfume and a touch of class. Tannin is a little grainy and silty, and there’s some chewiness to the wine for sure, a little orange peel bitterness and strawberry juiciness rolls out on a finish of good length. Still carries the signature of stones, flowers and red fruits of Asili, despite the vicissitudes of a somewhat torrid vintage. Good.
93pts. Gary Walsh, The Wine Front
2022 Barbaresco ‘Montestefano’
Montestefano stands as one of the most historic and esteemed crus in Barbaresco, renowned for its deep, nutrient-rich bluish-grey Sant’Agata marl soils with active limestone. Giordano’s parcel is uniquely positioned with a rare south-facing exposure and is the highest vineyard site within the appellation. These conditions contribute to the development of powerful, structured Nebbiolo wines that benefit from a prolonged phenolic maturation, typically harvested in mid-October.
Winemaking:
Following destemming, the grapes undergo a 15 to 20-day maceration on skins with fermentation in temperature-controlled stainless steel. A submerged cap technique is applied mid-fermentation for enhanced phenolic extraction. The wine is then aged 18 to 24 months in large Slavonian oak casks (30–50 hL), averaging 25 years in age, followed by an additional 12 months’ bottle maturation to achieve optimal integration and complexity.
Tasting Note:
Montestefano is intensely aromatic and inviting with black cherry and strawberry underscored by baking spice, and earthy truffle undertones. The palate is robust, refined and framed by firm, fine-grained tannins and vibrant acidity. A long, persistent finish reflects the vineyard’s distinctive terroir.
Review:
Clean, vibrant and lightly lifted, the nose generously divulges red cherry, strawberry and violet. Bringing in intriguing background notes of tar and hazelnut, the palate captures Montestefano’s innate classiness with firm tannins confidently girdling supple fruit. There is no lack of refreshing acidity. Luigi Giordano’s grandson Matteo Rocca, who now runs this estate with his wife and mother, says that harvest was slightly earlier than usual, on 30 September. To preserve freshness, he also reduced the time in wood.
93pts. Michaela Morris, Decanter
It’s an interesting thing that the people who purchase wines from Piedmont are very sensitive to the reputation of vintage. More so than Burgundy, for example, or so it seems. The wines from 2021 cleared out pretty quickly, while 2020 is still kind of slow moving, 2022 may be more of the same. Anyway, we try what’s in the glass and comment. Montestefano is one of the boldest crus in Barbaresco. Cherry, roast hazelnut, dried flower perfume, some panforte and spice. It’s all red fruit and cherry, a warmth though it with some golden fruitcake richness, a dry and grainy chew to tannin, somewhat chalky and ‘mineral’ with an orange oil and poached strawberry finish of solid length. Good flavour, though less finesse than is usual from this excellent producer. They’ve knocked out a pretty good wine all the same.
91pts. Gary Walsh, The Wine Front
2018 Barbaresco ‘Montestefano’ Riserva Magnum
Giordano owns the only Montestefano parcel with a rare south-facing exposure, located at the highest elevation within the appellation’s eastern flank. Montestefano and Montefico are the two most prestigious vineyards in this area. Planted in 1958, the oldest vines of this MGA (Menzione Geografica Aggiuntiva) yield lower quantities but produce grapes with greater concentration and balance. The Montestefano Riserva is crafted only in exceptional vintages, showcasing the vineyard’s true potential.
Winemaking:
Following destemming, the grapes undergo an extended maceration of approximately 30 days in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks. When fermentation reaches around 75%, a submerged cap technique is applied for an additional 15 days to maximise phenolic extraction and tannin structure. The wine then ages for 48 months in large Slavonian oak casks (30–50 hL), typically around 10 years old, allowing gradual maturation and complexity development before bottling.
Tasting Note:
Montestefano Riserva exhibits an intense garnet color that gradually evolves to orange hues with age. The nose is ethereal and expansive, layered with aromas of red fruit jam, spice, and subtle earthy notes. The palate is firm with refined tannins, balanced acidity, and a long, persistent finish that reflects the vineyard’s unique terroir.
Review:
The 2018 Barbaresco Montestefano is an attractive, mid-weight wine from Giordano. Veins of Montestefano tannin give the 2018 its feeling of nervous tension. Dark cherry, leather, spice, menthol, tobacco, licorice and a whole range of balsamic inflections shape the finish.
89pts. Antonio Galloni, Vinous