Tenuta di Fessina
Castiglione di Sicilia, Sicily
Availability:
SA, VIC, NSW & TAS
This small, mesmerising Etna estate has the great fortune of a selection of high-altitude vineyards in each the Northern, Eastern and Southern quarters of the Etna DOC where they source fruit mainly from ancient Carricante and Nerello Mascalese vines. Fortunate and historical vineyard acquisitions aside, the considered, low impact winemaking and peerless attention to detail have placed Tenuta di Fessina firmly in the upper echelon of small producers in Etna.
Etna wines are always decidiedly un-Sicilian in their styling and make up. Let alone the unique and very indigenous varieties they’re produced with (Carricante for the whites, Nerello Mascalese and Cappuccio for the reds), their elegance and freshness are more reminiscent of alpine wines than those from so much closer to the equator.
The wines from here (especially the thrilling whites) have amassed a borderline cult following, and one which will be further reinforced by this release of scintillating, acid driven wines from the past few vintages. I am sure the combination of classic harvests, wonderful sites and the guiding hand of current custodian Jacopo Maniaci mean this small release will be regarded as a benchmark for the estate. Followers of these wines will not be disappointed.
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Summer heat waves, followed by heavy rains of May and June impacted fruit set and reducing production by about 35%, but this made for a harvest higher in quality than quantity. Overall, a warm, dry late-summer and early-autumn has ensured that the grape quality is good. Furthermore, Etna’s consortium reports that Etna Bianco DOC grew by almost 20% and Etna Bianco Superiore DOC by 120% from previous years, suggesting that Etna whites are getting noticed as a competitive alternative to white Burgundy with as high a pedigree and quality, gifted with elegance, power and minerality.
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Summer heat waves, followed by heavy rains of May and June (the crucial flowering season), may have had a negative impact on fruit set, thus reducing production by about 35%, but this made for a harvest higher in quality than quantity. Overall, a warm, dry late-summer and early-autumn has ensured that the grape quality is good. Furthermore, Etna’s consortium reports that Etna Bianco DOC grew by almost 20% and Etna Bianco Superiore DOC by 120% from previous years, suggesting that Etna whites are getting noticed as a competitive alternative to white Burgundy with as high a pedigree and quality, gifted with elegance, power and minerality.
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The 2022 vintage was excellent, for it required a great deal of tactical and strategic interventions from winemakers to reach its peak. It produced healthy grapes with a perfect acid-sugar balance, great quality, with fresh and balanced whites and well-structured and complex reds. Sicilian winemakers demonstrate, once again, their extraordinary ability to manage the influence of climate change, thanks to the variety of the native wine heritage, biodiversity, and unique microclimates in the different areas.
2025 Erse Etna Bianco
Sourced from three contrade around Milo at elevations close to 950m, this blend of Carricante and 10% Catarratto epitomises the clarity and verticality of white wines from Etna’s volcanic ridges.
Winemaking
Fruit from 70–90-year-old vines in Biancavilla and Milo was hand-harvested in October. After gentle pressing, the juice underwent static cold settling for 24–36 hours before fermentation in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks. No oak was used. The wine was matured entirely in stainless steel and rested for 6–8 months in bottle prior to release to preserve its purity and tension.
Tasting Note
The result is brisk and mineral, tightly wound with high-altitude energy. Green plantain, lemon mint, ripe kiwi and crushed pear aromatics meet a racy, acid-driven palate that tightens on a long, saline finish. One of the more complete and expressive iterations of Erse Bianco, it hums with both flavour and focus.
2024 A' Puddara Bianco
From old bush vines on Etna’s southern slopes at 900m above sea level, A’ Puddara is a singular expression of Carricante.
Winemaking
Grapes from the 1950-planted vineyard in Biancavilla were carefully selected both in the vineyard and again by hand on the sorting belt. The whole bunches were gently pressed without destemming, and the must underwent cold static settling before being racked to 3,500L French oak barrels for fermentation. The wine remained on fine lees for 6–8 months in barrel, gaining texture and complexity, before being bottled and aged for a further 12 months prior to release.
Tasting Note
There’s a smoky, mountain-derived austerity to this vintage, balanced by fennel seed, green kiwi and lemon balm aromatics. The texture is seamless and understated, with the oak offering structural width without stealing focus. A wine of altitude and atmosphere.
Reviews
“Aromatic with sliced lemons, apple skin, dried pineapple and candied pears on the nose and palate. Medium- to full-bodied with lots of fruit and flavors. Dense but not heavy at the end with lively acidity from high-altitude vineyards. Drink now.” 94 pts. James Suckling
“The 2024 Etna Bianco A'Puddara opens with an inviting blend of almond custard, fresh mint and crushed stone. It presents silky textures and brisk acidity with a solid core of mineral-infused orchard fruit and spice. The 2024 tapers off with notable length and refinement, revealing a salty flourish and lovely inner florals.” 92 pts. Eric Guido, Vinous
“The 2023 Etna Bianco Puddara lifts from the glass with a slightly tropical mix of melon and citrus complemented by minty herbs and nuances of wet stones. This is soothingly round and supple with ripe orchard fruits and tactile mineral tones that add lovely contrast. The 2023 lingers long with a resonance of nectarines and hints of ginger through the saline finish.” 92 pts. Eric Guido, Vinous
2024 Erse Etna Rosso
A classic blend of Nerello Cappuccio and Mascalese from 70-year-old vines on Etna’s eastern slopes. Aged in steel and bottle for clarity and freshness, it channels the place with lightness and grit.
Winemaking
From north-east facing vineyards in Rovittello, fruit was hand-harvested and gently destemmed following selection. Fermentation took place in stainless steel with 6–9 days of maceration at 23–26°C. The wine remained in tank before bottling, then aged for a minimum of 12 months in bottle before release, preserving aroma and structure.
Tasting Note
Bright and lifted, with red cherry, earth and truffle. Liquorice and thyme add complexity to the taut red fruit palate. There’s grip and drive, an everyday Etna with terroir soul and confident poise.
Review
“The 2024 Etna Rosso Erse is earthy and herbal in the glass with a dark core of black cherries. This is round, fleshy and pleasantly fruit-forward, with juicy acidity that maintains energy throughout. It tapers off spicy and long, leaving a sour berry twang that puckers the cheeks as violet inner florals fade.” 91 pts. Eric Guido, Vinous
2024 Il Musmeci Etna Rosso Pre-Phylloxera
From certified pre-phylloxera vines, Il Musmeci comes from Tenuta di Fessina’s oldest vineyard, located in the Musmeci cru of Rovittello at 700 metres above sea level. Enclosed by a clos of ancient lava and volcanic stone, this is the estate’s most significant red, produced only in exceptional vintages.
Winemaking
Hand-harvested from north-east facing vineyards at 700m, fruit was carefully sorted, then gently destemmed and crushed. Fermentation took place in stainless steel at 25–28°C, with extended maceration on skins for 10–15 days to extract depth and aromatic complexity. The wine was matured for 10–12 months in 5hL French oak tonneaux, followed by 6–8 months in large-format 35hL botti, and bottle-aged for a minimum of four years before release.
Tasting Note
With time, the style has evolved. The seasoned botti highlight the wine’s volcanic roots, showing earthy and smoky tones alongside notes of caramelised meat, liquorice and char. The palate is intense yet fine, with saline freshness and firm, driving tannins that carry through a long, savoury finish.
Review
"The 2024 Etna Rosso Il Musmeci Prefillassera mixes crushed chalk, white pepper and olive-tinged blackberries to form its dusty bouquet. It’s round in feel with fresh acidity and lavender-laced wild berry fruits on the palate. This finishes staining and long yet only gently tannic."
92 pts. Eric Guido, Vinous