Tenuta di Fessina
Etna, Sicily
The late Silvia Maestrelli shines on for her ability to produce the finest Etna wines, her legacy. Such was her understanding and sheer love for the volcanic land surrounding the imposing volcano. Today, Tenuta di Fessina is known for creating wines that stand up to the greatest made in this DOC and in the whole of Italy.
Their mesmerising whites are truly the most limpid manifestation of Carricante, particularly from the ‘A’Puddara’ cru. As for the reds, they vividly embody the northern reaches of Etna; at once an imposing and delicate interpretation of the indigenous Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio that thrive in this ominous territory. Through years perfecting her craft, Maestrelli successfully harnessed the earth, fire, and ice which shaped this improbable Sicilian haven of fine wine.
These new releases are not only a benchmark of Etna terroir, but they hold a very special meaning for us; the utter delight they incite upon drinking and the compelling way in which they come to be is reason enough to pay respect to one of the greatest producers that ever existed.
“Etna immediately imposed a gravitational influence on me. After my first taste of Nerello Mascalese I searched for years to find the perfect terroir to show exactly the expression of this land that I had in mind. Then I found Fessina, with rocks pitched just like the old walls of a French clos, with the most fine and elegant soil. Since then, Fessina has been home” Silvia Maestrelli.
2024 Erse Etna Bianco
Sourced from three contrade around Milo at elevations close to 950m, this blend of Carricante and 10% Catarratto epitomises the clarity and verticality of white wines from Etna’s volcanic ridges.
Fruit from 70–90-year-old vines in Biancavilla and Milo was hand-harvested in October. After gentle pressing, the juice underwent static cold settling for 24–36 hours before fermentation in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks. No oak was used. The wine was matured entirely in stainless steel and rested for 6–8 months in bottle prior to release to preserve its purity and tension.
The result is brisk and mineral, tightly wound with high-altitude energy. Green plantain, lemon mint, ripe kiwi and crushed pear aromatics meet a racy, acid-driven palate that tightens on a long, saline finish. One of the more complete and expressive iterations of Erse Bianco, it hums with both flavour and focus.
Vinous (Eric Guido, 89 pts)
“The 2024 Etna Bianco Erse opens with a pretty blend of nectarines and wildflowers complemented by nuances of shaved citrus. It’s soft upon entry yet gains grip through a tension-building mix of brisk acidity, minerals and tart orchard fruits. The 2024 leaves a slight saline tinge and hints of spice on the modest close.”
James Suckling (James Suckling, 93 pt)
"Complex, showing toasty minerality and citrus. On the nose, it shines with lemon tree and lemon paste. Medium-bodied, it has tension and vibrancy with a tight finish. A bit of candied fruit as well."
2023 A' Puddara Bianco
From old bush vines on Etna’s southern slopes at 900m above sea level, A’ Puddara is a singular expression of Carricante.
Grapes from the 1950-planted vineyard in Biancavilla were carefully selected both in the vineyard and again by hand on the sorting belt. The whole bunches were gently pressed without destemming, and the must underwent cold static settling before being racked to 3,500L French oak barrels for fermentation. The wine remained on fine lees for 6–8 months in barrel, gaining texture and complexity, before being bottled and aged for a further 12 months prior to release.
There’s a smoky, mountain-derived austerity to this vintage, balanced by fennel seed, green kiwi and lemon balm aromatics. The texture is seamless and understated, with the oak offering structural width without stealing focus. A wine of altitude and atmosphere.
Vinous (Eric Guido, 92 pt)
“The 2023 Etna Bianco Puddara lifts from the glass with a slightly tropical mix of melon and citrus complemented by minty herbs and nuances of wet stones. This is soothingly round and supple with ripe orchard fruits and tactile mineral tones that add lovely contrast. The 2023 lingers long with a resonance of nectarines and hints of ginger through the saline finish.”
James Suckling (James Suckling, 94 pt)
“Aromatic with sliced lemons, apple skin, dried pineapple and candied pears on the nose and palate. Medium- to full-bodied with lots of fruit and flavors. Dense but not heavy at the end with lively acidity from high-altitude vineyards. Drink now.”
2024 Erse Rosato
Composed of Nerello Cappuccio, a variety that thrives in the cool climate and even draining soils of Etna, with a touch of Mascalese, this is volcanic rosé at its most distinctive.
Grapes from north-east-facing vineyards in Rovittello were hand-harvested and gently destemmed following selection in the vineyard and on the sorting table. After cold soak on skins at 12–14°C for 12 hours, the must was pressed and fermentation began with gentle cap management before finishing in stainless steel. The wine was matured on fine lees in tank to preserve varietal purity and structure.
Fermented and matured in stainless steel after a brief cold soak on skins, it has a clarity and savoury edge rarely found in the style.
Wild cherry, sour plum and strawberries lead the nose, while the palate carries notes of rosemary, thyme and volcanic ash. A light grip of tannin shows it’s inclination towards red, etched with structure, agile and mineral through the finish.
James Suckling (James Suckling, 93 pt)
“Restrained and mineral with struck-match aromas, white pepper and green apples, this tingles on the palate with light body and zesty acidity. Supertense style, biting yet good. Savory aftertaste. Drink now.”
2022 Erse Etna Rosso
A classic blend of Nerello Cappuccio and Mascalese from 70-year-old vines on Etna’s eastern slopes. Aged in steel and bottle for clarity and freshness, it channels the place with lightness and grit.
From north-east facing vineyards in Rovittello, fruit was hand-harvested and gently destemmed following selection. Fermentation took place in stainless steel with 6–9 days of maceration at 23–26°C. The wine remained in tank before bottling, then aged for a minimum of 12 months in bottle before release, preserving aroma and structure.
Bright and lifted, with red cherry, earth and truffle. Liquorice and thyme add complexity to the taut red fruit palate. There’s grip and drive, an everyday Etna with terroir soul and confident poise.
James Suckling (James Suckling, 94 pt)
“Restrained and smoky with graphite aromas as well as stony minerality, subtle flowers and red cherries. Medium-bodied. There is a lot of energy on the palate with crisp acidity and firm, dusty tannins. Crunchy finish. Drink or hold.”
Eric Guido (Vinous, 90 pt)
“Depths of crushed cherries and blueberries are complemented by sweet spice and violet pastille as the 2023 Etna Rosso Erse evolves in the glass. This is a fun and juicy effort with crisp red berry fruits and rosy inner florals that swirl throughout. It finishes spicy and long with cheek-puckering concentration and a slight tinge of edgy tannins.”
2023 Erse Rosso 1911 Contrada Moscamento
From a lava-sheltered amphitheatre in Rovittello spared by the 1911 eruption, this Nerello Mascalese sees partial whole-bunch, extended skin contact, and long oak maturation.
Hand-harvested from 1932-planted vineyards at 700m, the fruit was carefully sorted, gently destemmed and crushed. Fermentation occurred in stainless steel with 6–9 days of skin contact at temperatures between 23–26°C. The wine was then matured for 24 months in a mix of French oak tonneaux and 35hL botti, followed by 12 months of bottle aging prior to release.
Blackberry, lavender, and damp soil notes rise from the glass. Firm, chalky tannins shape the juicy core, with roasted herbs and mushroom nuance emerging with air. Though still youthful, both precision and pedigree shine through.
Vinous (Antonio Galloni, 89 pts)
“The 2023 Etna Rosso Erse Contrada Moscamento 1911 is delicate and understated in the glass, mixing wild strawberry and savory herb aromas. It’s juicy in character with tart wild fruit and crunchy mineral tones. This finishes with a staining of primary concentration and a pleasant chew. ”
2023 Il Musmeci Etna Rosso Pre-Phylloxera
From certified pre-phylloxera vines, Il Musmeci comes from Tenuta di Fessina’s oldest vineyard, located in the Musmeci cru of Rovittello at 700 metres above sea level. Enclosed by a clos of ancient lava and volcanic stone, this is the estate’s most significant red, produced only in exceptional vintages.
Hand-harvested from north-east facing vineyards at 700m, fruit was carefully sorted, then gently destemmed and crushed. Fermentation took place in stainless steel at 25–28°C, with extended maceration on skins for 10–15 days to extract depth and aromatic complexity. The wine was matured for 10–12 months in 5hL French oak tonneaux, followed by 6–8 months in large-format 35hL botti, and bottle-aged for a minimum of four years before release.
With time, the style has evolved. The seasoned botti highlight the wine’s volcanic roots, showing earthy and smoky tones alongside notes of caramelised meat, liquorice and char. The palate is intense yet fine, with saline freshness and firm, driving tannins that carry through a long, savoury finish.
Vinous (Eric Guido, 93 pts)
“Wickedly spicy and fresh, with zests of lemon and sweet mint complemented by a dusting of confectioners’ sugar, hazelnut, and hints of vanilla bean. It boasts silky textures and is more savoury than anticipated, with tart orchard fruits and notes of raw almond that fill the senses. Finishes lightly structured yet long, with hints of young peach and mango that linger, along with a residual burst of acidity that keeps the energy high. Nearly a minute goes by, and there’s still a lemon-ring bitter note that lingers. Wow.”
Wine Advocate (Monica Larner, 93 pts)
“Opens to a very transparent appearance with shimmers of shiny gold and green. It offers lots of acidic tension and fine aromas of white peach and citrus. The mineral element with sea salt and oyster shell is also very prominent. It almost tastes salty.”